Sweet Nothings Crochet

Thank you for joining me today as we work on this adorable baby dress, baby bolero and cap combo. This is such a pretty pattern and has been on my to-do list for a while. I'm thrilled to have it on my D..O..N..E list now and I'm sure you'll agree when you've made it.

My lovely client came up with the name for this creation - Phool 🥀 means flower in Hindi and she thought that the pattern reminded her of the trumpets of white lilies and her baby has her birthday in April. and of course you are aware that the 1st of that month is April Fools' day ... I love the name, don't you? 🥀

With my patterns you need to think a little bit - because I work on the principle of body measurements and stitch count rather than giving number of stitches to start. I do this because you may not be able to get the exact same yarn I am using - but that should not stop you from making a project. So while there are small calculations to be made, nothing is too hard and the end result is totally worth it.

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ about 100 gms of Ganga Hobby India crochet yarn with a 2.55 mm crochet hook ;

embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Anchor , 4-ply knitting cotton , White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Oswal & Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Size made : For a 1-yr old

Skill level : Intermediate

Stitches used :

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

OR https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

OR https://www.pgmdressform.com/DRESS-FORM-USA-professional-child-full-body-dress-forms

OR https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

There are ideas for the dress, a bolero / jacket and a cap.

Now most of these ideas come from other patterns that I have tweaked to make it work for me. Have fun.

The full set of the dress, bolero and cap

THE BABY DRESS

This is not my pattern. I've piggy-backed off the pattern here

However, I am making it for a younger girl and I'm not using the same yarn as that used by the designer - so these are my notes.

model wearing the dress - face hidden per client request

The cute baby dress - face hidden per client request

So what did I differently?

1) I like my foundation single crochet start, so I used that to start.

So I started with 122 fsc.

The designer has said to work in multiples of 3 + 2 and I needed to work it for a round waist of just under 19 1/4" (19.25"), so I worked fsc till I got this measurement and then checked that I had the multiples needed for this pattern.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

2) For the belt bit I worked sc all through, but you could work hdc as well. I just thought I'd like a smaller neat little belt bit, so that's how I went.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

3) She's then worked the "V"-stitch (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st.

In case you can't read charts then the pattern is as follows :

Dc in the 1st st ; sk next st, "V"-st in the next st ;

(sk next 2 sts, "V"-st in the next st) ;

rep (to) till the last 2 sts,

sk next st and dc in the last st. Turn.

Chest portion of dress - showing back opening

I decided to work the linen stitch for the chest portion of the dress.

For this I worked as many stitches as I needed for round waist in odd numbers

(so the stitch count given by the designer could also work - multiples of 3 + 2 as long as you have odd numbers at the end of it all)

Pattern is as follows : sc in the 1st st ; (sk next st, ch 1, sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) till the end. Turn.

See how to work the linen stitch in the video below.

In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/ui2s0V-dGPg

belt with yoke and start of skirt detail

4) The designer has made ch-5 loops for the skirt portion of the dress. I chose to make ch-3 loops.

I also wanted a more flared dress, so every time I could I have increased.

How did I do this? This requires a little bit of thought but it's totally do-able

In each alternate round, we are working the shell stitch (5 dc in the ch-sp) in the centre ch-sp of the earlier shelled round. In every other round, we're just working a round of ch-sps (as I said I've worked ch-3 sps all around). So I just worked an increase ch-3 sp for the first few rounds when I had 3 or 5 ch-sps in between the sp where I'd have the shell..

Oh gosh, am I explaining this well enough?

OK.. so let's look at the chart for the skirt : Now say we work the shell and the 2 ch-sps between shells.. in the next round we'll get 3 ch-sps between shells.. now the designer too has increased here as you'll see in the chart.. she worked 1 ch-sp between ch-sps and then 1 ch-sp in the same ch-sp.. so once again we have 3 ch-sps between shells.. does this make better sense?

So for the first few rounds, I increased thus every time I had either 3 ch-sps or 5 ch-sps between shells, choosing to increase in the centre ch-sp.

I only did this as I'm working on a 1-yr old baby dress and wanted to ensure I got the flare in early - but if you are working this for an older (taller) child, go ahead and follow the instructions on the pattern sheet.

wearing the dress and matching bolero - sleeve showing

THE BOLERO : I followed the basic pattern for the bolero from https://crochetcrosiahome.blogspot.com/2022/04/crochetcrosia-super-easy-baby-jacket.html.

I worked this in dc all through.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

I worked the pattern all the way till the frilly lacy portion. Now as I want it to match my dress, rather than copy the lacy end pattern from the bolero, I worked the shelled skirt pattern (of the dress).

So I worked the ch-3 sps as we did for the skirt portion and then worked the shell pattern of the dress.

In the last row of the bolero, I added a row of picots in the shells. So for the 3-ch picots, I worked 3 dc + picot + 2 dc in the shell part.

Here's how you can work a 3-ch picot

In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

THE CAP : I have worked this pattern before here - the only change(s) are :

a) I've made this for a child, so sizing changes (i.e. circumference and length) and ;

b) I worked the shelled skirt pattern (from the dress) for the brim portion - so it matches.

Circumference calculations

Here's a great way to check circumference

To check, you are either going to wear the beanie, or check with the head size chart given at the top of this blog.

Remember that yarn stretches - so if it's a bit snug, it's good

1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.

2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).

3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.

So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.

There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).

This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.

It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).

So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.

Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.

So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)

Now what does this mean ?

Let's take a practical example. Take the 3month beanie size from the head sizing chart below (which is from the links above, just fyi)

So the circumference of a 3-month old beanie is 16". Our circumference calculations say divide the circumference by 3.14 - so we divide 16/3.14 = 5.09"

This means that once your circumference of work is around 5", you stop the increase rounds and start working just the non-increase rounds.

You will then continue working the non-increase round pattern all the way till the length desired (which for this 3-month baby beanie example is 6"

Exactly the same thing for all sizes - so for Adult Small it is 22/3.14 = 7 and work this for a length of 8.25".

and here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839058772/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837764548/

About 1" before I reached the length needed for the cap, I worked 3 rows in all sc (for a flat firm edge that would grip the head) and then worked the shelled skirt pattern (from the dress) for the floppy lacy brim.

FINISHING : For finishing the neckline, you could work a round of sc and then work a round or crab stitch or reverse single crochet for a lovely beaded finish

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

I had a really fun creative day and I do hope you do too.

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I have a few dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go